Machine for sewing and trimming fabrics



(ModeL) J. BIGELOW. r

MACHINE FOR SEWING AND TRIMMING FABRICS. Nq. 244,531. V Patented July 19,1881.

N. Pm mmm m. wlmlon. n c.

UNI E -STA ES PATENT Qu nce.

JOHN BIGELOW, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

MACHINE FORS- E'WING AND TRIMMING FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming at of LetterisiPatent No. 244,531, dated July 19, 1881. Application filed August 19, 1880. (Model) To all whom it may concern:

zen of the United States, residing at Philadeh phia, in the county of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Zigzagior Irregu lar Stitch Sewing Machines with Trimming Devices; and I do hereby declare the, following to beafull, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertainsto make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to letters or figuresof reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

Inthe accompanying drawings similar letters of reference indicate like parts.

Figure 1 is a perspective of a device embodyin g myiuvention. Fig. 2 is a perspective, showin g the needle-throat with its tongue and its relation to the feed. Fig.3 is a top view of the presser-foot, showingits needle-throat, its hornprojection, and the relation of the projection to the cutting-point ofthe trimming device. Fig. 4 is a front elevation of the presser-foot.

Theobject of the present invention is toproduce a' combination of mechanism adapted,

among other things, to make the cut-hose patented in reissue Letters Patent No. 9,113, dated March 9, 1880. The device is particularly applicable to the mechanism shown in reissue Letters Patent No. 9,112, dated March 9, 1880 5 and it consists in so arranging the trimming device that instead of being attached to and carried by the reciprocating work-plate, as in that patent, it shall swing on a pivot or center behind said reciprocating plate, from which, however, it receives its swinging movement in such a manner that the cutting-point of the shears will follow the sewin g-point of the material as it is. being moved for making a zigzag stitch. The modification, as shown,extends also to the resser-foot, which is stationary, and to the needle-throat,which, instead of being a simple slot at right angles to the line of sewing, consists of a slot with a tongue, 0, over which the stitch is made parallel with said line, but so placed and arranged that the alternate reciprocations of the plate to which it is attached will place it first on one and then on the other side of thepoint of perforation of the needle. The tri m- 5 .ming device is, however, equally applicable to Be it known that I, JOHN'BIGELOW, a citithe needle-throat and vibratin g presser-foot described in said patent.

.The construction and operation-of the machine are as,follows,viz., using the reciprocating plate, the sewin g and the shear-actuatin g mechanism described in my said patent No. 9,112: At a point, G, behind the reciprocating plate B, and a little to the left of theline ofthe needle, I pivot the plate D, to which the shear-blades are attached; The plate D has a slotted connection with a pin, F, in the cap E, which cap is adj ustably attached to the plate B. F is so set that the points of the shears will move in harmony with the plate where they touch the same near the needle-throat, Fig. 3. The plate B, by mechanism described in said patent No. 9,112, at each stitch reciprocates alternately to the right and left and at right angles to the line of feed. By placing the pin K in the vertical actuating trimmer-bar L, described in said patent, back at a point central or nearly so over the knife-plate pivot Gr, it can be connected with the upper shear-blade,

, to which it conveys motion at a point where said blade has little or no lateral movement, and with the plate D, securely held by the pivot-pin G and cap E, all of the practical advantages of I a stationary shear-plate are gained.

A further improvement is that with the reciprocatin g plate B and swinging shear-plate D, l have added a throat-plate, 0, having a ton guepiece, 0, Fig. 2, and a stationary presser-foot. The ton gue-piece O is attached to the plate 0, which, in turn, is screwed to the reciprocating plate B, and so arranged that the needle will pass down alternately on one side of said ton guepiece and then the other in makingits stitches.

The stitches are thus made over the tongue,

which is tapered to the point, so they will readily pass from it as the work is fed along. As the feed is only on one side of the needlethroat, and thefriction of the stationary presserfoot against the lateral movement of the work has to be overcome, the stitch thus formed around the tongue, which is reciprocated by the plate B, assists the material at the point of sewing to reciprocate to the right and left, and causes the stitchingto be zigzag or irregular.

The device above described is one of the The pin modifications of a tongue vibrated above and across the needle-throat of a sewing-machine, for which I have made application for patent, as shown in cases 15,651 and 15,669, filed August 19, 1880.

The presser-foot M has a horn or projection, M, on its right side as the operator looks toward it, when on the machine. It extends considerably to one side of theline of perforation of the sewing-needle, and also beyond the cutting-front of the trimming device. It serves a double purpose-keeping the work down where perforated by the needle, thus, with shuttle-machines, insuring the taking of its loop by the shuttle, and, also, in material having edges liable to curl or roll up on itself, it serves to keep such curl or roll from interfering with the cutting or trimming device, as explained and claimed in my reissue Letters Patent No. 9,112. This horn differs from the one shown in said Letters Patent, however, in that it surrounds the needle and is finely slotted at its rear to admit of the ends of the needlethread being passed through when starting to sew.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

3. In combination with the stitch-forming 4o mechanism of a sewing-machine for making a zigzag or irregular stitch by alternate lateral movement of the material being sewed, asheartrimmer and devices for causing the cuttingpoint to follow the vibration of the material 5 while the point at which its upper bladcis actuated is nearly or quite stationary, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

JOHN BIGELOW. Witnesses:

L. DEANE, G. W. BALLOGH. 

